Yep, that's what is says, 4 degrees in #Otaru
Sapporo - Otaru - Sapporo
That was a surprise. Left the warmth of our hotel to be blasted with cold air as soon as we ran out the back door. Turned the first corner and it was even colder with the wind sweeping up the long street carrying minute white flurries of snow! Exhilarating. @Zac got to see how fast this group of Aussies could move.
Definitely raced along the street, zipping up, wrapping scarves and pulling on gloves only to have to do the reverse as we scaled the steps for the train station. A mass of moving people in the underground and seriously, could not hear a voice only the footfalls echoing off the walls.
Today's explorations
Goal today was the exploration of #Otaru which involved accessing the local #Sapporo line, the #JR line and a canal boat. @Zac had us lined up and in the sprinter's starter position to board the #JR line train for #Otaru and with fast twitch fibre muscles trembling, as the doors opened, we raced to ensure we were first on and could secure seats. Mission accomplished and with a reminder to keep voices subdued, we settled in for the 50-minute ride. Not sure we have mastered the "quiet" thing - there was a constant low buzz of chatter as we exchanged stories and threw out questions about the changing landscape.
The train ride - provided impressive views of the snow-capped mountains that ringed the coastline. Razor sharp ridges that stood cold and very uninviting against the solid grey of the sky. On the other side, the Sea of Japan swirled ashore equally angry and uninviting. Definitely a cold and bleak day and a day to have your bottom comfortably warmed by the heated seats of the train.
#Otaru - historically was a centre for the creation of glass lanterns and glass buoys to support the fishing industry. With the move to plastic solutions the craftsmen here now focus on the creation of all things decorative glass and our first introduction to this legacy was the mural of glass lanterns that made up the vaulted fouer display at the train station.
Canal Cruise - All canal traffic was cancelled after 11.30 today due to the windy conditions so we were literally on the last one of the day - consodering ourselves very fortunate because the glossy brochure billed this as "The funnest activity in #Otaru.". And BIG surprise, in fact a HUGE surprise, this was a little OPEN AIR UNCOVERED canal boat. Oh dear, there was not much enthusiasm from the trekkers to begin with because it was so cold with temperatures barely reaching 4 degrees. We are a very compliant group though, and dutifully lined up and donned our buoyancy belts after the safety briefing. We were excited to learn that these little devices would automatically inflate once they were wet. Very comforting and what will they think of next. It sort of reminded me of those teeny tiny tourist T-shirts that you buy - when you drop them in water they expand to wearable size.
Sometimes, things are lost in translation and that was the case today when, in true cheeky Aussie fashion I asked our buoyancy belt instructor how many times the boats had tipped over?
Whatever I said and however I asked, the answer that came back with a beautiful smile was "Just over 40 ...." and that's where I totally shut down my active listening in my attempt to jump out of the queue and abandon ship before we were even on board.
What a relief when we realised the staff member had thought I had asked how long the cruise went for ..... the answer to which was 40 minutes - hence her comment! Phew. Panic attack averted and replaced with loads of laughter.
The big bonus of the boat was that the seats were HEATED. That's right, absolutely hot little planks of wood that made everything seem so much better. So complete with buoyancy belt, a warm bottom, layers of clothing and an entertaining commentary we braced ourselves against the chill of the breeze and puttered our way around the canal. And I am happy to report that it was "Just UNDER 40" and no buoyancy belts were automatically inflated on the journey.
The recorded audio commentary was detailed and delivered in precisely enunciated (and very literally translated) English and was triggered at various way points. The eloquent references to beautiful scenes and vistas had us in giggles. The elaborate descriptions didn't quite match the sombre greyness of what we could see in the abandoned budlings, working canneries lined by unlit street lights. But nonetheless, with the aid of the warmed seats, it was an entertaining and stable ride.
An introduction to the main street - this walk introduced the trekkers to the history of the glass making factories, the industries, some history of the area and the shopping opportunities. Got the heads up on the authenticity or otherwise of the wolf shop, the music boxes and the sea urchins - so avoided all three. We virtually had the street to ourselves and the digital signage displaying temperatures of 3.8 and 4 degrees helped to explain the lack of fellow tourists.
We opted for a big lunch today (and subsequently skipped dinner later in the evening.) Took our place in a queue at a restaurant recommended by @Zac and after once again stumbling at the vending machine ordering system, eventually took our place in the very tight seating of the warm interior and tucked into seafood. As usual - a great recommendation and worth the wait.
Made a final dash uphill to catch the train and now quite comfortable finding our way home. Still colder than cold and just grateful that neither the rain nor the flurries that the weatherman predicted for the afternoon caught us on the dash home.
Big lesson today was in relation to clothing. We had the layering right for 4 degrees but needed to do better in the consistency department. I had a long-sleeved thermal top on and @Mac opted for thermal long john pants. We each managed to get it half right. Tomorrow, definitely going to go the whole hog and wrap ourselves up in tops and bottoms.
Major task this evening was to tackle the washing (great job @Mac) and to load the backpacks for the next few days without our suitcases. Literally turtles carrying our chattels on our backs. In for a couple more cold ones as we head a little further south so covering all bases in our determination to beat the cold.
Things we've noticed
If miso soup is served, it is the done thing to drink the broth directly from the bowl (no spoon is provided)
An Apple iPhone exposed to 3-degree temperatures on a canal trip, turns itself off in the cold
Washing machines are available here at Route Inn in the entrance to the Public Bath - took our own detergent capsules and the machine took ¥200 per load. Drying took forever and was ¥100 per 30 mins.
PS For those who get up close and personal with @Mac you absolutely must ask him about his high tech experience in the toilet at the very posh PATHOS speciality cake and sweet shop. Unforgettable fail.
And continuing his run of bad luck, we noted that the white bird deposits that dotted the roads and footpaths had somehow made a creative splotch on the back of his jacket. Seems as if he didn't need a ¥100 investment in a fortune strip to change his luck. He's scoring it all today - he might need to buy a lotto ticket.
Weather: Maximum 4 degrees under cloudy skies with early morning flurries
Steps: 12 050
KEEP CALM THOUGHT FOR THE DAY
Eventually you will reach a point when you stop lying about your age and start bragging about it. Will Rogers
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