Sapporo
First day of touring with @Zac and we were not disappointed. Lots to see and learn, all at a perfect pace, with discussions that included all members of the group on absolutely wide ranging and random topics. This is a "personal" tour, with every need and query taken care of by an attentive, knowledgeable and fun team leader.
We welcomed the final two trekkers to the group today - their plane delays in Tokyo had them arriving just before midnight. Nonetheless, they were bright eyed and bushy tailed for the group start in the Level 1 Lobby for our 9.15 (what a sensible time) meet up. (As an aside, I mention the Level 1 Lobby here because these is also a Level 5 Lobby. We were absolute dills on the first day we arrived and presented ourselves to the unmanned desk in the Lobby of Level 1. We waited and waited. Looked for the bell, the intercom and the staff to no avail and of course were absolutely clueless when it came to reading the Japanese sign prominently displayed on the aforementioned unmanned desk. Eventually spotted a sign on the lift indicating a Level 5 Lobby. That's the "real deal." It was a great shared experience at our first group catch up - we had all been caught out by the fakey on Level 1. Sort of thinking that maybe there is a camera up on Level 5 where the staff watch the hapless new arrivals and get a good laugh.)
Ready to face the day - note a.m. clear blue sky
The right alarms rang at the right time this morning and breakfast was a rinse and repeat of yesterday with plenty of choice and extremely attentive and welcoming staff. Still extremely quiet with the silence only punctuated by the warm and effusive greetings and farewells of the staff.
The plan for the day was simple - walk and talk to become familiar with the grid layout of #Sapporo, navigate the underground access to the subway trains, visit landmarks and learn something of their significance and locate the best eating places and coffee shops for our personal meals over the next few days.
Armed with maps and under constant surveillance and a head count from @Zac, we joined the Monday work crowd for a leisurely day of getting to know the group members and the city of #Sopporo.
Our explorations today included visits to:
Odori Staton - Our anchor in the underground world or what could be termed our homebase. It all seems very busy and crazy down there but there is method in the madness. Once you sort out the green, blue and orange lines and add the north and south markers it is a just a matter of following the breadcrumbs. @Mac of course was the master and was taking on @Zac's instructions almost by osmosis - so feeling very confident that as we are issued these "day passes" in the future we will be able to go further afield. Interestingly, all visual and audio instructions once on board are delivered in Japanese and English. Your progress is marked by electronic maps, the door operation is heralded by a flashing light, the stations are announced clearly and displayed repeatedly on the overhead screens.
Entry is a simple process of inserting your ticket and then finding your "line" to wait for the train arrival. No need to worry about schedules - the next one is within 6 minutes. It was crowded - but not squashed - and admitting early that we did accidentally fail train travel etiquette 101 and were reminded to respect the "quiet zone of the carriage." "Sumimasen" was all that we could offer. (Thanks @Michael for the vocab lesson!) Took a few rides on different lines, in different directions at different times of the day - certainly efficient and moved us quickly around the city. Just note, there are lots of steps up steep stairways.
The Clock Tower - listed as a "favourite" attraction in #Sapporo, this wooden structure was built in 1878 as a drill hall for the militia attached to the Agricultural College. After the American designed building was completed as a ceremonial hall by William S Clark a clock was subsequently commissioned (there's a whole story here about it not fitting and a new tower had to be constructed.) Once installed, the mechanical, pendulum clock became the official time marker for #Sapporo. Very simple and humble building - definitely not large, palatial or even beautiful and in the scheme of "all things Japan" - not even old, but for some reason it is beloved to the locals. Oh, and yes, there were stairs - mind you @Mrs_K and I opted to invoke help from the obliging staff in attendance and took the option of the wheelchair lift to make a slow inch by inch ascent to the upper floor.
Odori Park - yes, we visited yesterday, but today we had the insights from @Zac including its role as a firebreak, its transformation during WWII to a communal garden, its role in hosting the Olympics and annual festivals and were offered a promise of its beauty in 2 months when "spring has sprung" and the ornamental gardens are in full bloom. The route we took today did revisit many of the highlights we stumbled on yesterday following the tourist map - but the stories shared certainly added context and significance and was may more entertaining than Dr Google.
Tanukikoji Shopping Street - an arcade style shopping street that extends over seven city blocks that sells everything! A busy thoroughfare and shelter from the changing weather, this is one of the oldest centres in #Hokkaido and with all the choice available, was it really any surprise that the most important shop on this adventure was the Coffee Roasters. Lots of willing Aussies in the group lined up to place their order. As guests left the establishment with their coffees, staff members would escort them to the doorway and thank them for their custom and then clap their exit and wave them onto the street. Our group boosted business so much that the entire staffing team came to the entrance to pose for photos and offer thanks. Amazing. Great customer service and a sure-fire way to build goodwill.
Great story in this precinct of the shape shifting racoon which is the emblem of the centre and its connection with the early brothel history of this hub. The story linked perfectly with the "Vegas Vegas" establishments. Apparently, the "beautiful" girls in the doorways (the pesky racoon, transformed by placing a leaf on his head) would lure customers and then once inside would "play malicious tricks on them" including fleecing the customers of all their money. Make of this what you will - but the moral of the story is - don't even think about entering "Vegas Vegas."
Hokkaido Shrine - Located in the #Maruyama Park, this was the afternoon activity and for me the highlight of the day. Another train ride followed by a leisurely stroll in a winterscape of sacred ground shared with dozens of locals. Our first shrine visit and I am sure there will be many more. @Zac brought this to life sharing the significance of the worship, the importance of the grounds and the elements of nature that inspire worship and reverence. We paused at the tori, were introduced to the deities, ambled up the gentle stairway, bowed, washed in preparation for the visit, offered prayers and chanced our fortune all surrounded by snow covered forests, towering bronze statues, gold tipped roofs, open courtyards and folded and tied rejected fortunes.
Those humble table shrines of hundreds of years past that held a family's offerings are now these beautiful triangular domed shared places of worship.
I chanced my hand at the fortune and willingly paid Y100 for the honour. No courage was needed here because if you didn't like the fortune you received, you had the option of folding it up and rejecting it - hence all the tied white pieces of paper on display. I rather like mine and @Zac indicated it was a "fiery favourable" fortune so it is now carefully refolded and in my handbag.
And yes, there were stairs.
Left to our own devices
The day was a perfect balance of activity and downtime. Once the morning tour was completed we were able to take advantage of the tips we had been given for dining venues and the group dispersed to find lunch. We opted for a neat little 6 seater ramen restaurant. Our first attempt at ordering from the vending machine and can't say we nailed it. You deposit your money and then punch up an order - a receipt is dispensed which is handed to the chef who cooks up your order. Seems simple enough and I know we will be better for the experience. And the outcome was delicious. No complaints from us at all in this little sit and go dining option.
Regrouped for the afternoon session to the shrine (once again on the train) and after a quick detour to an electrical store to get the essential SIM card, with @Zac as our personal shopper, it was time to meet up with the group to hunt down the dinner spot. Again, a recommendation from @Zac, meant we were holed up in another ramen restaurant in a couple of booths slurping on our soup and sipping #Sapporo Beer. You know how I intimated we would be better at the vending machine ordering "next time" - well, we really weren't other than to know the concept existed. Sure took a long time for this group of bumbling Aussies to make their way through the ordering process but again the patience and support of the staff was appreciated. Plenty of chat time, great eating and a leisurely dinner which was followed by one last coffee chaser and conversation in the Level 5 Lobby.
We did watch a parade of late-night hotel "locals" coming and going in their blue hotel supplied PJs and brown slippers making their way to the public bath. Have not garnered the courage yet to even think about trying this - not sure there are enough white face clothes available to boost my confidence or compensate for my modesty.
As @Mr_L mused over dinner, it is great to be enjoying the luxury of another night in the same venue. We are closing out the night, trying to put together a clothing solution for tomorrow that will cope with the predicted 8 degree maximum!
Weather: 20 degreee start to the adventures with clear skies in the morning, cooling down in the afternoon to 14 degrees under a blanket of clouds
Steps: 17 210 (wish I could include how many STAIRS were encountered)
KEEP CALM THOUGHT FOR THE DAY
Our wrinkles are our medals of the passage of life. They are what we have been through and who we want to be. Lauren Hutton
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