Thursday, April 18, 2024

13 We're all shook up in Hiroshima April 18

High tide and calm seas at the #O-tori Gate of the #Itsukushima Shrine

Hiroshima - Miyajima - Hiroshima

Do have to start with the overnight highlight. There was a 6.4 magnitude earthquake with its epicentre just 165 kms south of us. Minor damage was reported, but the most important thing was that no tsunami warning was issued. 

A jolt or two, phone alarms going, no idea what to do ... better prepared for next time

Definitely got a fright as the building jolted at 11.15 pm last night. I sent a text to @Yasuna for advice but many guests in the hotel went out into the corridors asking what to do. An emergency broadcast came through on the phones (very loud) but @Yasuna indicated the safest place to be in our hotel room - was with our head under the table. @Mac and I had a bit of a laugh because we are not sure we could both fit under the table. Some in our party of 12 slept through it all!

And, was not comforted by @Yasuna's heads up for our ferry visit today - if we feel a big jolt while on the island, make for higher ground. Pleased to report, no quakes felt today on our trip to #Miyajima.

It was Day 2 in #Hiroshima so no big relocation plans from one city to the next which does help in maximising the day for getting around to see some of the countryside up close and personal. Since we have been with @Yasuna we have had access to a pre-paid travel card. It's a prefilled-top-up card that definitely makes the trek through the various tram, train and ferry gates that much easier. In these city stations where it is a wall-to-wall crush of people, we are not huddled in groups getting instructions and tickets. There was only one momentary incident of panic when one couple lost their cards and had to buy a paper ticket ... only to find the pre-loaded card when they emerged on the other side of the gate .... safely tucked in their wallet.  

Appreciate that from each of our guides, instructions are always explicit for the following day's itinerary. You are verbally briefed at the last "group" meeting point of the day and then the details are added to the "What's App" group. This not only includes the timing but also a weather heads up and any hints on what you might need for the day in terms of clothing and "cash only" options. It has been working well and we have a group where everyone operates on the let's be there 5 to 10 minutes early. The best thing is - if you become separated from the group somehow, you always have access to the return instructions. Must say though - like @Zac, @Yasuna does a headcount at every decision point!

Today's meetup time was 8.30 and full marks to @Yasuna - she had us on the island perfectly timed so that we got a view of of the iconic #Itsukushima Shrine at both high and low tides.

Very happy to have had this adventure

A train first, followed by a ferry. The sky today was suffering from the sand and smog carried from #China by a westerly. It was a dull grey in the morning but by the afternoon had cleared to clear blue skies again. We have been fortunate with the weather.

Today's explorations

Miyajima - this is the second of the three most scenic views of #Japan that we have seen as declared all those years ago by @Shunsai Hayashi. The island itself is a sacred site and today, its perimeter is lined with shops and restaurants and its heights have been made accessible by walking and hiking trails and a ropeway. Like all things in #Japan it involves steps ... lots of them. But at a leisurely pace - all very doable. The only danger here was what seemed to be the reckless speed of the local drivers on the very narrow pathways.  We opted against the ropeway today because of the hay skies courtesy of the #Chinese neighbours meant visibility was poor.

A yellow sandy hazy obscured the view on approach to the island - high tide

Almost a team photo - where's @Mrs_A?

Down at the water level 

O-tori Gate - it isolated and bright in colour, standing in the receding tide. What a view from the ferry. It stands at just under 17 metres in height and weighs some 60 tons. The roof area is filled with about 4 tons of fist shaped stones and the cedar, camphor and cypress construction can stand under its own weight. The current Gate is the 8th since the Heian period (were talking around 1120) and was constructed in 1875. It was the scene of ritual dances called #Bugaku and these elaborately costumed rituals are still performed here at regular festivals.

Vibrant vermilion everywhere

Itsukushima Shrine - First built in 593 it was restructured into its current form in 1168. The shrine consists of a main Shrine, a Noh stage (there was a performance today), music rooms, worship and purification halls and other structures all connected by corridors stretching some 260 metres. The Shrine is perched above the ebb and flow of the tide and sits tucked into the shoreline with a perfect backdrop of the mountain. It's striking vermilion colour is said to keep the evil spirits away. We might have dodged the spirits - but it had no effect on the crowds - people were swarming everywhere on the one way pathway. And this isn't even busy.

Views from the shrine

Daishoin Temple - Had to visit this Buddhist Temple high on the mountain side because @Yasuna had declared it as her favourite. A roadway, a bridge and lots of stone steps to reach it but it was as special as promised.

Always more stairs!

This is the oldest temple on the island founded in 806 founded by @Kukai (yes, same monk as #Koyasan) and was designed as a special place of prayer. There is a deity at every corner - someone to worship and someone to make a wish with. So many donation points. Prayer wheels, mirrors, drums, bells, incense and statues. An assault on the senses really. But glorious views and everyone in the precinct happy, with no complaints.
Worth the walk

Maybe I should live here and just crochet red beanies!

Bells and prayer wheels

Add to that a lemonade stop on the ascent and it was a winning trek.

It was a real treat and a boost for the walk down the hill

Low tide and lunch - the island seems to us to be packed - but apparently not even busy by normal standards. @Yasuna had given us the tide times so we were definitely on the shoreline to try and get out to #O- tori. I had my @Mindy "reef" sandals and could tackle the low tide. Wandered out and got to touch those pylons - just because I can!

Low tide adventures because I had the shoes for its - spot the hat

 We were able to secure a seat for a simple lunch of a sandwich and a cup of coffee - sometimes you just want familiar AND a seat. Didn't have to fight with the native deer who wander the island because we were eating inside. They are very hungry and approach you to try and eat pamphlets and phones if they are in your hand. 

Lunch without a deer attack

Okonomiyaki Dinner - @Yasuna had organised a meetup for the group for dinner in a building that has an entire floor devoted to this speciality. We had a super experience here. Took up a spot at the bench in front of the hot plate and enjoyed every moment of the playful banter of the chef as he sweated his way through compiling the individual order of each guest. Built the omelette right in front of you. Oysters, scallops, prawns - plenty of cabbage - herbs and spices - and loads of salt - eggs - it all came together like magic. This was a totally different texture from our previous lunch experience and was delicious. A unanimous 10 out of 10. It did seem that the whole floor of probably 40 different venues was controlled by the same "owner" - but to have to say our chef made the experience very entertaining. 

Decisions, decisions 🤔 

Watching it all happen - loved every mouthful

Were a little challenged in meeting the 10 pm deadline for luggage drop off. In our eagerness to lighten the backpacks, we found ourselves stripped off and squared away before we realised we had to do a lift run and a lobby drop off. We were so thorough, only had our fresh clothes for two days and our PJs .... everything else was in the locked suitcases. Starkers might have caused a little drama (and unblocking and getting in dirty clothes was too much trouble) and the PJs provided don't meet either of our body types (wow, they are SMALL) so @Mac donned tomorrow's clothes and man handled both suitcases to the delivery point. Phew, no-one saw him, so won't think he's wearing the same outfit twice. Mind you, we are a little light on in the undies and socks-department - didn't quite have enough options to get us "pristine clean" through to Day 2 #Kyoto when our luggage will arrive. I now understand why the bottle pictured below is in every hotel. Just saying - used a bit of it for the #Bonds.

Spraying liberally

Weather: obscured sky early, clearing to 24 degrees

Steps: 15 390

KEEP CALM THOUGHT FOR THE DAY

The more you praise and celebrate your life, the more there is in life to celebrate.  Oprah Winfrey

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