Rubbing Billiken's feet for luck
Osaka
A day that is definitely a blur. Without the photos I am not sure I would actually remember the day. All I can say, is the lasting memory is all about food.
Started the day with food at the hotel - moved onto the train and ate more food - had a late lunch in #Osaka at an okonomiyaki restaurant and then joined @Petjin for a food walking tour.
Took a different train today - The #Thunderbird and marvelling at how organised the stations continue to be - a blue #Thunderbird trail was clearly marked and there were plenty of staff to direct us through the up and down maze of station platforms as we transferred from the local train to the connecting #Thunderbird. This took us on a scenic trip through the #Japanese Alps to #Osaka - having said that, we really need to be in a plane to get the overhead view of the Alps 😉.)
The landscape alternate between cityscapes and agricultural land and was increasingly greener as we moved south. The train went by the large #Lake Biwa. It’s one of Earth’s oldest lakes, and Japan’s largest. After that, the landscape became low, green mountains interspersed with vast flat fields presenting views that changed between towns (low set whitewashed, black roofed homes) and farmland.
Everything moves quickly on the train: still comfortable and this time all the seats were in doubles and no trolley service - we had to eat the food we had pre purchased at the station in #Kanazawa from the #German Bakery. Still laughing that our #Kanazawa food highlights were Chinese, Italian and German!
Arrived to a crush on #Shin-Namba and had to take the local train to our hotel. After a few false starts and with @Mac as the Assistant Tour Guide armed with live Google Maps in play, we found the alleyway entrance to the #Tokyu-Rei.
Literally a bag drop and we were out walking the four blocks to the specialty okonomiyaki restaurant where @Mac seemed to have missed the memo about food choices and opted for noodles! Everyone else stuck the script and tucked into their "pancake." No worries, a few in the group have cottoned on to @Mac's appetite, labelling him " a big eater", and untouched portions were funnelled his way.
Not sure why we put our hand up for the speciality late 2pm lunch because the meetup for the walking tour was 4 pm.
What a treat this tour was with @Pepijn - a Dutchman who has lived in #Japan for many decades. The focus of the walk was to sample local cuisine and to experience the #Dubiborin beating heart of downtown #Osaka at night. Eat we did (cannot begin to name the food) and walk we did (endlessly until our feet ached.)
I'd describe this little walk as loud and in your face. Lots of evidence of the sub-cultures of #Japan in #Osaka, #Japan's second largest city and third largest in population.
#Doboroni was the focus - a food mecca with restaurants, bars, night clubs, food stalls and fresh markets: an entertainment mecca with gaming rooms, pachinko, fan girls, anime, firing and shooting ranges and even #Mario carts and canal cruises; specialist shopping precincts - you name it they were selling it and there were throngs of people buying. And it was all wrapped up and presented with huge 3D signage and statues and endless flashes and changes of LED lights. What an assault on the senses. It was rather perplexing- this was a Monday night - why weren't all these people at home. @Pepijn suggested it was #Osaka's version of #New York City.
Have to comment on the amount of gaming and anime production in #Osaka. Statues, cards, dolls and all sorts of toys are everywhere you look. In one of the streets "maids" were the live advertising models. Enter one of these maid concept cafes and the waitresses are dressed in cute uniforms and treat you like you are their beloved master (or other role depending on the theme of the cafe). Maids greet customers as “master” and serve kawaii (cute) food and drinks with smiley faces and hearts drawn with tomato sauce on omelettes. The maids, dressed with no two costumes alike, lined the street, waving pamphlets and inviting you into their Cafe. Quite an eye opener
Think we saw rubbish on the streets for the first time - to be honest, only in a few places, but now it is jarring because we expect pristine conditions.
@Pepijn talked and walked us through all the details of dozens of shops and somehow worked his way to special food touches. I wish I could remember the names, but it did start with an udon noodle soup reordered from a vending machine (this gave everyone a fright because it was so filling - didn't think we would handle what was ro come.) Had lessons here on the etiquette of slurping from chop sticks and drinking directly from the bowl. Moved on to some sweet treats (very sticky with subtle flavours); pulled up an outside stool for the oyster balls (tiny squid in a ball of dough) and rounded out the evening with a sit-down option for assorted tempura coated options on skewers complete the entire etiquette of dipping for the kushikatsu.
Loved our introduction to all the oversized decorative statues/models that tried to entice you to the restaurants. I think I need a "no double dipping" figure that is used for the kushikatsu restaurant to enforce my no finger licking rules at home. He was one angry dude!
Confessing we didn't try was the $120 steak that @Mac spotted. Have decided a good piece of eye fillet is definitely on the menu when we return home.
Saw #Abeno Harukas in the distance and were surprised to learn that this 60-storey building is the tallest skyscraper in #Japan. The low buildings we have encountered to date, no doubt a design response to the potential for natural disasters.
The #Glico running man is one of the most well-known landmarks in #Osaka and we stopped on the bridge to get a good view and learn about the gentlemen who wait here in the hope of an introduction to ladies who are exiting from work. This huge (very plain in its composition) brightly lit sign has glowed over the #Dotombori canal in #Osaka’s shopping district for 80 years - definitely got a shot of him! Dared to glance down #Shinsaibashi-Sui, the shopping street, and @Pepijn laughingly offered us an opportunity to "shop." Wow. Wouldn't even think about it - what a crush!
We took the riverside promenade, the #Tombori River Walk, and it was no easy task. A big crush of people lined up to gain access to restaurants and the canal cruise. We used this access to get on another train to take us to #Shinsekai.
This is a little more "old school" but was still bustling with crowds and plenty of food options. Such a different feel here- sort of like a repetitive side show alley with restaurants and shops interspersed with pachinko slot machines, shooting galleries and archery games. It also featured a zoo, a Kabuki Theatre, a luxury spa, and even a cinema that doubles as a porn hub, all under the shadow of #Tsutenkaku (literally means 'tower through to the sky)and you just about have it.
Interesting aside about the Pachinko establishments given that gambling is illegal in #Japan. So not really a casino despite having a similar feel to the poker machines. These are enormous establishments filled with gaming machines. Extremely busy and beyond noisy when you go inside. The players win "extra turns" or can opt for "tokens." When tokens are claimed a ticket is released and this ticket can be taken outside the venue and "traded" for a toy or cash. According to @Pepjin, this industry is worth $300 trillion yen a year - about $150 billion US.
We finished off our food choices here with a specialty skewers restaurant and we had to line up to get in. Tried (and rejected) the gristly beef tendon skewers but made up for it with the vegetables and chicken options. Fascinating to watch the preparation and surprised again at how much of the food is tempura dipped and then deep-fried in vats of oil.
Needed a single train ride to get us home and to be honest, the 4 pm till 9 pm trekking through these crowded streets, all under bright neon lights, with constantly blaring noise was enough. Welcomed the sanctuary of home, in what has definitely been the smallest room (but still comfortable) to date.
Itineraries that are only a few weeks long and traverse so much of Japan need to compromise somewhere - and I think #Osaka is that place for us. Only here for this evening and we are off again tomorrow. Definitely a stop that warrants more time. And wait a contrast, we're heading from the crazy madness of #Osaka to meditative calm of the Buddhist centred #Koyasan.
Weather: 22 degrees under a sky obscured by 100% coverage of thin cloud
Steps: 16 584
KEEP CALM THOUGHT FOR THE DAY
The older the fiddle, the sweeter the tune. Proverb
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